Tuesday, September 14, 2010

The Josie Jacket

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The Josie Jacket is a pretty little vintage-inspired jacket for a toddler.  I designed the jacket for my turning-one niece, and it’s named after her.

I used a light-weight, thin wale corduroy from Free Spirit: Nest Corduroy by Valori Wells,  for the smaller jacket.  The larger jacket is also a light-weight, thin wale corduroy, but it was from my stash and I think I got it at Hancock’s on clearance a while ago.
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I’m linking to some of these parties.

FULL INSTRUCTIONS AND LINK TO PDF PATTERNS AFTER THE JUMP
(click "read more”:)




The jacket can be made either with facings, which I have no tutorial/pictures to guide you through, but I did include in the pattern pieces; or with a lining, that I’ll go over in this tutorial.  The matching beret tutorial found HERE

I have two sizes of patterns, a size 1T and a 2T.  These measurements are based both on clothing from my children that matched those sizes, and the children that I made these for that currently wear those sizes in most of their store bought clothing.  The pattern and construction are basic.  There are a lot of steps, but nothing fancy or difficult, so don’t be thrown off by the pictures.  I just wanted to make things as clear visually as I could, to make up for my primitive pattern-making. 
Which brings us to the patterns.  They do not have tailor markings and the like.  I was afraid of adding them to my homemade patterns and throwing off construction with a mismarked arrow or something.  So they are just really basic pattern pieces.  But they’re free, so hey! 


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For the 1T size you’ll need:
1 yard of main fabric (1.24 if using facings).  I recommend a heavier weight, such as corduroy, twill or denim.
1/2 yard lining fabric (if using).  I used a taffeta.
Small amount of medium-weight interfacing (it’s just for the collar, so really not much at all-1/4 yard at most)
3 yards ric-rac
3 buttons
Size 1T Jacket Pattern

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For the 2T size you’ll need:
1.25 yard of main fabric (1.5 if using facings).  I recommend a heavier weight, such as corduroy, twill or denim.
1/2 yard lining fabric (if using).  I used a taffeta.
Small amount of medium-weight interfacing (it’s just for the collar, so really not much at all-1/4 yard at most)
3.25 yards ric-rac
3 buttons
Size 2T Jacket Pattern
**Patterns are hosted on Craftsy and links are affiliate links**
Print, cut out, and put together (some have to be taped together) the pattern pieces.
Pin them to fabric and cut out your pieces 
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We’ll start with the main body of the jacket, with the front and back uppers
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At the shoulders of the back upper, sew a basting stitch across each and pull lower thread to gather slightlyIMG_8423
Match the gathered shoulders of the back with the un-gathered shoulders of both front upper pieces, right sides together.  Sew in place.
Sew side seams
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Take the ric-rac and lay it across the raw edge of the upper sections.  Match the lower edge of the ric-rac with the raw edge of the upper sections all the way across on the right side of the fabric
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Stitch in place
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Take the waistband and lay it, right sides facing, across the upper sections, matching raw/ric-rac edge to raw edge of waistband
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Sew in place
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Press seam allowance away from waistband, forcing the ric-rac to point down on the right side of the garment. IMG_8432
Now for the lower section
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Right sides together, sew along the side seams attaching the front sections to the back section
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Basting stitch along the upper edge and pull lower thread to gather
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Using the upper section as a guide, gather and adjust the lower section to make the seams and raw edges matchIMG_8437
Once you have it gathered to the right size, stitch the ric-rac in place, securing the gathers, as you did with the ric-rac on the upper sectionIMG_8438
Right sides together, lay the ric-rac’d lower section on the waistband and sew in place, again making sure that all side seams line up
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Remove basting stitches
Press seam allowance away from waistband
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Now you should have something like this:
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Sleeves.  Fold each sleeve, right sides together and sew along the raw side edge
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Basting stitch around the entire upper sleeve opening and pull lower thread to gather
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Adjust the gathers so that the sleeve matches the side seams of the main body of the garment as you, right sides together, pin the sleeve in place inside the garment’s arm hole
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Sew the sleeve in place
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Remove basting stitches
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Repeat for second sleeve
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Onto the lining
Right sides together, match the front pieces to the back at the shoulders and the sides seams
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Sew in place at shoulders and side seams
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Fold each sleeve, right sides together and sew along the raw side edge
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Basting stitch around the entire upper sleeve opening and pull lower thread to gather

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Adjust the gathers so that the sleeve matches the side seams of the main body of the garment as you, right sides together, pin the sleeve in place inside the garment’s arm hole

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Sew the sleeve in place
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Remove basting stitches. 
Repeat for second sleeve.  
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Right sides together, place the jacket into the lining. 
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And pin in place

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Sew along the front opening and around the collar area
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Now you’re to this point
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Before you press, pin all around the newly sewn area.  If needed, pull the main fabric over inside the jacket, so that none of the lining peaks through onto the actual outside of the jacket
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Press right over the top of the pins
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Top stitch the whole newly sewn area
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Collar.
Pin the ric-rac around the outside of one of the collar pieces, on the right side of the fabric.  You want the edge of the ric-rac to butt up against the raw edge of the collar.
Sew in place
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Make the collar as described in this lesson (sorry I didn’t take pictures of this process on the jacket for some reason)
But basically, attach interfacing to one collar piece, on the wrong side of the fabric.  Rights sides together sew around the collar, all but the neck area itself.  Turn, press, top stitch.
So now you have a finished, but not attached collar
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Let’s attach it. 
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We’re going to use the method that doesn’t use any facings, as described here.
So pin the collar to the garment’s neckline.  The raw edge of the collar needs to match with the edge of the neck opening, right side of collar to right side of garment.  Pin ONLY the lower layer of the collar to the garment
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Sew along where the pins were, ONLY on the lower layer of the collar
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Press the seam allowance up into the collar
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Fold under and press the upper layer’s edge into the collar
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And sew the entire collar, upper layer included this time, to the garment’s neckline
Press
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Things should look like this now
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So let’s hem the jacket. 
   
I had planned on hand stitching the lining to the main fabric along the hem, to enhance the gathered/bubblyness of the lower jacket.  But I ran out of time.   I still think that would look best.  But since I didn’t do that, I’ll show you what I did.
Basting stitch the lower raw edge of the main jacket, NOT the lining.  Pull the lower thread and gather to match the size of the lining inside, matching the side seams of the outer to the side seams of the lining.
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Now stay stitch through both the gathered main and the lining, securing the gathers of the main fabric as you go
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Take the lower edge of the garment and fold under once, then twice, about 1/4 inch each time 
Press
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Top stitch along the entire bottom edge
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Same thing on the sleeves. 
Fold one 1/4 in, and then another
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Press
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Top stitch
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Almost done.  Let’s do the buttons
Figure out your desired placement of the buttons and mark with a tailor’s pen or chalk
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Make the button holes on one placket
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Attach the buttons to the other placket
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And you did it!
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13 comments:

janimal said...

OhMyGosh that is a great tutorial. I definitely want to try this jacket! You made it look so easy with all your great pictures. I think I may try it with a contrast stripe and skip the ric-rac. Just lovely. Thanks so much for sharing this!

silvia said...

Thank you so much for the double gift: a tutorial and a pattern- it's great to have them both.

Coco loves vintage said...

Fabulous!!!

Kristin said...

This is an adorable jacket. I just made my 14 month old a jacket yesterday! I loved the ric rac idea, I'll have to use that idea on another project I make. Great tutorial!

Misty said...

Adorable! Thanks for linking @Creative Itch's "Sew Cute Tuesday"!

Kim said...

DARLING! Thank you so much for the tutorial and the pattern!!

sassafrass said...

This tutorial is perfect!! I made it last week and added my own touch and took off the collar. It's lined with a flannel with polka dots and breast cancer ribbons. I'm sending it off as a donation. I also linked you on my blog for the tutorial. Thanks so much and keep up the awesome blog!

Natalia said...

You are amazing for the time you put into this and for sharing it like this! Thank you so much!

Karin said...

I love this jacket! Thank you so much for taking the time to put together a pattern & tutorial.

I printed off the 1T pattern and am in the process of making up a jacket for my daughter. I'm wondering what you are using for seam allowance? 5/8"? or smaller. I am finding that the lower front panels are not wide enough to allow for any gathering and thought maybe I was using the wrong seam allowance, or maybe I'm doing something else wrong...

karinfoster at gmail dot com

Thanks again!
Karin.

sisters4saymoreismore said...

totally beautiful! your instructions are so amazing... i can't wait to try this one! thanks you for the pattern and the tute!

~selina

bethany said...

Thank you so much for this pattern and tutorial! It is awesome! I posted about it here: http://makealong.blogspot.com/2011/01/easy-wall-decor.html

Jenya @ While she was sleeping said...

Gorgeous!

Tillie said...

This is adorable. BUT I want to point out girl clothing closes right over left. Boy is left over right. Notice on store bought jackets, etc.

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