Thursday, April 14, 2011

Sewing Lesson: Free-Hanging Skirt Lining

 

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Yes, this skirt is a total mess and would only fit a 10 year old.  I salvaged what fabric I could from the wadded up, cut up, sewn up disaster that was this skirt attempt.  At least it worked for technique practice.

The Book says, “Free-hanging skirt linings are not sewn to the garment at the bottom edge.”  So basically, the skirt and the lining are separate except at the waist and fastening points

Start by making the outer skirt.  Complete any darts and/or shaping features, insert zipper, and finish hem

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Cut out your lining from the same pattern, and following the same grainlines as the outer skirt.

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Complete any and all shaping features, such as darts.  Leave the zipper opening open, plus one inch.

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Sew the skirt lining together and hem the bottom edge.

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With wrong sides together, place the outer skirt inside the lining.  At the zipper area opening on the lining, fold under the seam allowances and pin to the finished/open zipper of the outer skirt
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Sew the lining to the zipper tape.  The Book says to hand sew this, I’m guessing so it doesn’t show on the finished outer skirt. 

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Turn.  Match and pin raw edges of the waists on both the lining and outer skirt, and finish as one piece at the waist.

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And now you have a nice little modest free-hanging lined skirt. 

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Lucky you.

ETA: 4/2011  Bad Fairy commented with some great advice:
what i was taught back in the days of everything being highly tailored, was to just do a pinch pleat in the lining instead of a stitched dart. that way there was no seam to not line up when you were wearing the garment (works in linings of jackets as well); and for the hems, always finish the garment up to the hem, then have someone mark the hem fold line of the outer layer, and stitch, then put the garment back on and have someone mark the fold line of the lining, which should be 1/4 - 3/8 shorter than the outer layer. one caveat though: don't turn the garment inside out for this, it won't hang right. however, once you get the front, back, and both sides marked, you can lift the outer layer up and continue with marking the liner with it out of the way. just be sure to double check before stitching that the liner is shorter than the outer layer.
try another garment, and don't be afraid, it just takes a bit of practice and sometimes a bit of reworking until you get the hang of it.

1 comment:

bad fairie said...

what i was taught back in the days of everything being highly tailored, was to just do a pinch pleat in the lining instead of a stitched dart. that way there was no seam to not line up when you were wearing the garment (works in linings of jackets as well); and for the hems, always finish the garment up to the hem, then have someone mark the hem fold line of the outer layer, and stitch, then put the garment back on and have someone mark the fold line of the lining, which should be 1/4 - 3/8 shorter than the outer layer. one caveat though: don't turn the garment inside out for this, it won't hang right. however, once you get the front, back, and both sides marked, you can lift the outer layer up and continue with marking the liner with it out of the way. just be sure to double check before stitching that the liner is shorter than the outer layer.
try another garment, and don't be afraid, it just takes a bit of practice and sometimes a bit of reworking until you get the hang of it.

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