Thursday, March 3, 2011

Sewing Lesson: Shirt Neckline Placket

The Book says, "Plackets are used to reinforce necklines of garments where an opening is desired.  A neckline shirt placket is very similar to the sleeve shirt placket.”

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Your required pieces for the placket are the shirt front, an under placket, a top placket, and interfacing for both plackets. 

The interfacing should be the same length of the placket pieces, but half the width. 

The under placket is slightly narrower than the top placket and approximately 1/2 inch longer than the neckline opening. 

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Attach the interfacing to the wrong sides of the placket pieces
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I found it helpful to press the placket pieces in half prior to getting to the actual attaching to the neckline
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Also, snip the neckline opening at the bottom, at an angle at each side corner
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Okay, with the garment facing down, lay the under placket (also facing down) so it’s right edge is flush with the left edge of the neckline opening.  The top of the placket should meet up with the top of the opening.
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Sew in along that matched edge, ending 1/2 inch from the bottom of the placket, which is the actual bottom of the openingIMG_1800
Fold over and press the left edge of the placket 1/4 inch
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Flip the placket to the front of the garment and fold it in half.  The unsewn, folded edge should be just over the stitchline

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Top stitch that open side.  Then match things with more top stitching along the folded side
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Turn the right side of the garment down to the back, along with the under placket.  You’ll have the clipped bottom of the neckline opening and the little 1/2 inch tail of the under placket sticking up.
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Stitch these two little friends together.
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and flip things back up.  The tail will be sticking out on the front of the garment, but no worries, that will be taken care of in a minute
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Please note:  I didn’t use a pattern, just eyeballed the basic shapes of a shirt front and plackets.  So things get a little puckery from here on out.  If I had actually measured, or used a pattern, we’d have much smoother results.  Unless your pattern calls for puckering.  Hey! Let’s pretend like mine did!  Okay, moving on…

Flip the garment back over so the wrong side if facing up.  Take that top placket and you’re going to do the same thing as you did for the under placket, just on this side. 

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Clip 1/4 inch into the top placket at the bottom of the stitch line
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Fold all unsewn edges up 1/4 inch and press in place
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Turn the placket to the right side of the garment
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Fold over in half
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And sew down both sides up to, but not past, the bottom of the neckline opening
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Now just secure that bottom tail of the upper placket, covering up and finishing the under placket as you go. 

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And you have a Shirt Neckline Placket
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hey, hey!

3 comments:

saskia said...

I did need to learn how to do this but for some reason I'm a tad confused- maybe because I am tired

crafterhours said...

I realize it's been awhile since I've commented, so I just wanted to pop in to say a HUGE thank you for continuing this series! I can imagine how much time and effort it takes not only to learn a new technique, but to sew it, photograph it, upload, write, and post. I (and I'm sure many many others) super duper appreciate it, and I feel like I have a little sewing encyclopedia sitting here whenever I need it. The shirt placket is definitely one I'll be returning to in the future! Thank you thank you thank you!
-A
ps: love your header :)

Gretchen said...

Hey Sabra, I wanted to let you know that I absolutely love your blog. I'm a fledgling sewing student and I love all the tips you post. I wanted to let you know that I've passed along the Versatile Blogger Award to you to show my appreciation for all the hard work you put into helping the rest of us out! :o) Check it out!

Gretchen
proverbsthirtyhuh.blogspot.com

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