Prepare the collar and and pin to the right side of the jacket at the collar
From lapel notch to lapel notch
Now, sew through all layers of fabric, attaching the collar in place.
When preparing your pattern, the lining needs to differ from the outer jacket pattern:
1 inch shorter hem on the lining than the outer
1/4 inch higher armhole/side seam corner, and also 1/4 inch out. Taper this back into the regular side about two inches down.
So what I did was trace the outer jacket pattern onto my lining material.
Then I took a straight edge and took away the inch on the bottom
And added the 1/4 inch at the arm corners, tapering back in about two inches down
Complete the jacket lining: any inside pockets, shoulder seams, side seams, sleeves:
Now you’ll have two friendly little matchey jackets
Right sides together, lay them so that all raw edges match, and the collar is tucked down and inside, sandwiched between the outer and the lining
Sew from the front bottom hem of the facing, up around the sides, collars, down the other side and end at the end of the other front bottom hem of the facing
Now match the bottom hems and sew those.
The Book says to expect a gap where the front facing and the front lining meet
This next part looks weird, and is a bit confusing, so I hope I can explain it.
With things still wrong side out, pull the sleeves of both the lining and the jacket up above the shoulders.
Now you need to match their raw edges of the cuffs, right sides facing. It’s awkward, because the entire sleeves are NOT inside of each other. You just have to put the openings of the cuffs ONLY inside each other
And stitch all around
Now unpick one sleeve’s side seam about 8-12 inches, depending on the size of the jacket. Why you can’t just leave this opening when first sewing the sleeve, I do not know.
It will be through this opening that you’ll turn the whole thing right side out
And start pulling the jacket through the opening. I think this part is really pretty cool. Like giving birth to the jacket. Or something
So now you have this
Fold the hem up and sew in place. taking care of that earlier mentioned gap
Finish with any buttons or closures, or whatever
See full details on the completed assignment, with pattern, for this lesson HERE: