Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Shirt Sleeve

The Book says, “A shirt sleeve is sewn into a dropped shoulder armhole…there is very little curve in the sleeve cap and also very little ease-stitching required in the sleeve cap when attaching the sleeve to the garment.”
And therein lies the main problem with what you’re about to see.  I used a regular set-in sleeve pattern for this, so things get…wonky.  Read the words, laugh at the pictures.  I obviously need to practice sleeves a bit more.

For a shirt sleeve, you want only the shoulder and yoke seams of the main garment done (no side seams) and the sleeve itself needs to be unfinished, as well (unless you’re doing a placket opening at the cuff, then get that done first)
IMG_6166
You need to ease or crimp the sleeve piece.  I went over crimping with Set-In Sleeves, so let’s do some easing here. 
Baste stitch on either side of the stitch line from one end of sleeve cap to the other
 IMG_6167
Pull threads to gather enough to fit arm hole opening.
 IMG_6168
Officially eased
So, now, place your sleeve, right sides together, on the armhole.  Match all notches, the shoulder position, and underarm seams.  Pin pin pin.
    IMG_6172 IMG_6173
Now sew from end of sleeve cap to the other end.
  IMG_6175
Remove basting stitches from when you did the easing
IMG_6176
and oh, dear! is it supposed to look like that?  No, but let’s pretend so we can move on.  You can top stitch at this point.  I couldn’t see a need seeing as how it already looked so amazing
 IMG_6177
Then just finish the rest of the garment by matching the underarm seam of the sleeve to the side seam of the garment   IMG_6179
and sew
 IMG_6180
And hopefully yours won’t look anywhere near as bunchy as this.  I rock.
 IMG_6181 IMG_6182

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Sew a Straight Line by Sabra Gubler is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 United States License.
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