Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Set-in Sleeve

The Book says, “Most garments are designed with a set-in sleeve.  This sleeve is sewn into a traditional armhole.  The sleeve cap may be styled from a minimum to moderate to a great deal of fullness.”

IMG_6150

A set-in sleeve begins with the sleeve already finished and ready to go, as is most of the garment it’s going into.

Crimp or Ease the sleeve.  Here I’ll show you how to crimp. In the Shirt Sleeve lesson we’ll go over easing.  Same idea, different methods. 

To crimp run a stitch along the top of the sleeve cap, from notch to notch (assuming you’re not a dummy like me and didn’t put notches into your homemade pattern…)  As you sew, keep your left index finger tight against the presser foot, puckering the fabric as it comes out after being stitched.
 IMG_6155 IMG_6156
You’re crimped.
Now you need the sleeve right side out and the garment inside out.
 IMG_6157
Place the sleeve inside the arm hole on the garment, right sides together.
  IMG_6159
Match seams and notches first.  Pin there. 
 IMG_6160
Then ease the rest of the sleeve into the armhole, pining as you go
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Sew
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If you did it right, it won’t look like this.
  IMG_6163
Again: THIS IS NOT WHAT YOU’RE GOING FOR!
Unless you want it gathered, and then hey! Sweet gathered sleeve. 
But really, take time and ease and pin as you should so that the sleeve fits in the hole better
  IMG_6164 IMG_6165

2 comments:

Christine said...

I'm so glad you posted this today! I actually tried to sew one of those very sleeves today (before I saw this) and well, if it's supposed to be inside out, crooked and puckered... then I nailed it!

Sabra said...

Christine: ha ha ha! I love it!

Did you *see* what mine turned out as? My consolation is that I have done this type of sleeve before with success. However, those pictures aren't up for the world (or the five people you read this blog) to see.

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