Fly-Front Zipper

The Book says, “The Fly-Front Zipper Application is a more tailored detail and is used in both women’s and men’s front opening pants.”

I say there are a lot of steps to these. I guess they’re really not too bad, but as this was the first time I’d ever done one, I was confused through the first half, which led to a funky finishing. But whatever. Now I know, and you know what GI Joes says about that. But really, after this I think I should change the label “Sewing Lessons” to “Sewing Practice” because if anyone learns anything from this, wow. Anyway, on to it…
A fly-front requires some extra pattern pieces. You’ll need two fly-shield pieces (about 2 inches wide and as long as the zipper tape) and a zipper facing (3 inches wide and as long as the zipper tape)

Sew your crotch seam up to the zipper opening and clip at the opening mark

Fold the facing piece in half length-wise

Pin to the correct side of the crotch seam, with the raw edges together

Sew the facing to the crotch seam 1/4 inch from seam allowance

Flip the facing over and away from the fly and turn the seam allowance to the facing (this is where I start to get all confused and need to remind you that this is me LEARNING, and you’re just along for the sweet ride.)

Top stitch 1/8 inch away from seamline

Now take the fly-shield pieces. Right sides together, sew from top, around the lower curve 1/4 inch in

Turn and press

With the wrong side of the zipper facing up, place the zipper on the correct side of the crotch seam

Then place the fly-shield on top of the zipper, pin in place

Make sure to tuck the rest of the project out of the way. Sew through all layers of fabric and the zipper tape the whole length of the fly shield

Place the correct side of the project facing up with the zipper still closed and the fly shield and sipper away from the pants

From here, pin the other crotch seam, and attached facing folded under, over the closed zipper so that the zipper is hidden
Turn things wrong side out and flip back to expose the facing and the zipper. Sew the zipper tape to the facing. Keep everything else free of this area so you don’t catch any stitches on it

Last, turn the project to the correct side. Stitch 3/4 inch parallel to the seam through all layers of fabric, curving in at the bottom of the opening

and there you go.

Or something. I seriously stink at this. But I’m going to blame most of it on my made-up pattern pieces. Yikes.