NOTE: I wasn’t very precise in my practice construction (I know, surprise!), but it turned out well enough for learning how to do the technique. I’d like to use these for a project I have in mind and will be sure to be more precise in my measuring then.
Begin by transferring the pocket markings onto the main garment piece
In addition to the main piece, you’ll need the top pocket lining, an under pocket that’s 1/2 inch longer than the lining (I forgot to do this) and the welt, which is 2 inches by however big your pocket opening will be plus seam allowances.
Take your welt piece, fold it in half right sides together
Stitch the ends
Turn and press
Place the welt on the garment at the marked lines. Baste in place with the open edge along the pocket lines
Place the under pocket at the top of the welt
baste in place
Then place and bate the lining over the welt, below the pocket line.
Now, you’re going to sew a rectangle around the pocket line. Not a bating stitch this time, it’s the real deal, baby.
Remove basting stitches
Cut the pocket opening. I marked with a black marker the way you need to cut. You need a straight cut down the middle, and at each end a convex angle.
Pull the pocket pieces through the cut opening
The front will look like this, with the welt
Sew the pocket lining and under pocket together
Press the welt up, so it covers the opening. Stitch along the sides to keep in place
And that’s it. Kinda cool.