Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Bound Welt Pockets

The Book says, “Bound welt pockets are frequently used in designer coats and suit jackets as well as pants, skirts, blouses, and shirts…Although the process for sewing welt pockets is simple, very precise construction steps are required.”
IMG_5853
NOTE:  I wasn’t very precise in my practice construction (I know, surprise!), but it turned out well enough for learning how to do the technique.  I’d like to use these for a project I have in mind and will be sure to be more precise in my measuring then. 

Begin by transferring the pocket markings onto the main garment piece
 IMG_5831
In addition to the main piece, you’ll need the top pocket lining, an under pocket that’s 1/2 inch longer than the lining (I forgot to do this) and the welt, which is 2 inches by however big your pocket opening will be plus seam allowances.
 IMG_5832
Take your welt piece, fold it in half right sides together
  IMG_5834
Stitch the ends
 IMG_5835
clip corners
 IMG_5836
Turn and press
 IMG_5837
Place the welt on the garment at the marked lines.  Baste in place with the open edge along the pocket lines
 IMG_5838
Place the under pocket at the top of the welt
 IMG_5839
baste in place
IMG_5840
Then place and bate the lining over the welt, below the pocket line.
 IMG_5841
Now, you’re going to sew a rectangle around the pocket line.  Not a bating stitch this time, it’s the real deal, baby. 
 IMG_5843
Remove basting stitches
 IMG_5844
Cut the pocket opening.  I marked with a black marker the way you need to cut.  You need a straight cut down the middle, and at each end a convex angle.
IMG_5845
Pull the pocket pieces through the cut opening
 IMG_5846  IMG_5848
The front will look like this, with the welt
 IMG_5849
Sew the pocket lining and under pocket together
 IMG_5850
Press the welt up, so it covers the opening.  Stitch along the sides to keep in place
 IMG_5851
And that’s it.  Kinda cool.
 IMG_5852 IMG_5853

1 comment:

SAMZE said...

Thanks so much for this! Love this pocket...I would've never thought that would be doable for me! :) Thanks so much for the step by step and photos! :)

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